The Tea Family

From a Bitter Plant "Tu" to “Cha" (Tea)
The custom of drinking tea originated from the time of Prince Zhou of the state of Lu. Commonly believed to have been first used as a medicine, it later evolved into a drink. Originally known as “lu,” after the bitter edible plant, it was also called “ming.” The name “cha” first replaced “tu" during the mid-Tang Dynasty and is commonly used today.
Teas are usually named after their place of origin. Examples include Qimen Black Tea, West Lake Long Jing, Huangshan Maofeng, etc. They are also named after their shapes, such as Queshe (sparrow tongue). The ones named after the tea trees they are harvested from are Dahongpao, Tieguanyin. etc. The ones named after the season they are harvested in are Yuqian Cha (harvested before rain), Mingqian Cha (harvested before the Qingming festival), Qiu Cha (Autumn Tea) or Dongpian (Winter Tea). Named after fermentation, there is the “fully fermented tea,” the “half-fermented tea" and the "non-fermented tea." "Border sales tea," "exported tea," "domestic sales tea," "foreign sales tea," etc., derive their names from their area of sale.

Tea Leaves Classifications
Chinese tea leaves can be classified into two major types. (1) Basic tea leaves are freshly picked and processed before being made into green tea, black tea, Oolong tea, yellow tea, white tea and dark tea. (2) Reprocessed tea leaves are treated and reprocessed basic tea leaves made into flower tea, compressed tea, tea extracts, fruit tea, herbal tea, tea bags or tea flavored drinks, etc.

Green tea
Green tea is a type of unfermented tea, easily recognized by its green leaves and tea liquid. There are two types of green tea— quality green tea and mainstream green tea . Quality green tea is usually hand produced in limited quantity. Examples include West Lake Long Jing, Dongting Bi Luo Chun, etc. When brewed in a glass teacup, one can admire the leaves unfurl in a “dance of tea leaves." The shape of the tea leaves can be differentiated into twisted, flat-shaped, spiral-shaped and various other shapes. Mainstream green tea is usually mass-produced by machines. The quality is of mid to low standard, usually made for export. A certain amount is used to fumigate flower teas. Sun-dried green tea is mostly used to produce compressed tea.

Black tea
Black tea is a type of fully fermented tea. Its black tea leaves and liquid is easily recognizable. It can be further classified as Gongfu Black Tea, Broken Black Tea and Small Species Black Tea. Gongfu Black Tea is the traditional Chinese black tea. Known varieties include Yunnan's Dianhong Gongfu, Anhui’s Keemun Gongfu, etc. Broken Black Tea requires simultaneous kneading and cutting, thus the final product are grainlike tea leaves, usually sold internationally. Small Species Black Tea is the earliest form of black tea. The Zhengshan Small Species Black Tea is of the best quality.

Oolong tea
Oolong tea can be classified according to its place of production—Southern Min Oolong, Northern Min Oolong, Guangdong Oolong and Taiwan Oolong. Northern Min Oolong's degree of fermentation is stronger; it is straight and coarse. Sometimes, the end is twisted. The leaves are edged black. Thirty percent of the leaf is black and seventy percent is green. Examples include Wuyi Narcissus, Wuyi Cassia, etc.

A Master Tea Brewer’s Three-step Formula

Step 1: Pre-brewing Preparation
There are three things that we should take note of before beginning the brewing process.
First, prepare the tea leaves. Take out an appropriate amount of tea leaves as per the number of guests. Next boil water-different tea requires water of different temperature. Avoid re-boiling water. Also, one must make sure that the amount of water poured into the kettle is enough. Lastly, prepare the needed tools or condiments in accordance to the type of tea brewed. For example, when brewing black tea, one should keep sugar cubes and cream.

Step 2: Brewing
A tea-brewing expert pays close attention to three aspects: water temperature, quantity of tea leaves and brewing time. The water temperature for different tea types vary. For example, Oolong tea should be brewed in boiling water. Green tea requires about 80°C. The amount of tea leaves varies in accordance to the taste of the guests. When brewing tea in a cup, the ratio of tea to water is usually 1:50; in a pot, the ratio changes depending on the type of tea leaves and the preferences of the tea drinker. Finally, as tea leaves are produced in different places and harvested at different times, the time for brewing varies. Usually, tea brewed in a cup is ready after steeping for 2 to 3 minutes. However, some teas may take longer. For example, White Peony Tea requires steeping for 5 minutes. Also, tea brewed in a pot is steeped for different time lengths. For example, the first infusion of Oolong tea is very short, needing only approximately 40 seconds. Subsequent infusions take a little longer.

Step 3: Cleaning and storing the tea set after use
Clean and store the tea sets immediately after use. Tea dregs left in the teapot over an extended period of time begin to rot. This will cause the flavor of the tea being lost in
subsequent brewing. Also, tea dust accumulates easily on the tea set. Do not use dishwashing detergents to clean Yixing teapots because the teapot will absorb the chemicals present, thus affecting the quality of the tea. Drain the tea dregs and wash the Zisha teapot with plain water. Porcelain or glass items can be cleaned
with dishwashing detergents. Ensure that the handles, base and inner walls are cleaned. Use soft materials such as cotton cloths in cleaning. Metal mesh or other hard materials will scratch the glazed surface of these items. Dry with the tea towel. The tea towel should also be washed and dried. Lastly, ensure safety by turning off all electrical appliances. Take extra care in caring for the tea set. For example, bamboo or wooden tea trays tend to crack and leak if it is not used frequently during dry seasons. Cover it with a moist towel.
Tea Tips
The selection of the tea set is very important. The taste and fragrance of different tea leaves vary when brewed in different tea sets.

Tea Distribution

In other lo ensure that the flavor of the tea is distributed evenly, first pour the tea into the fairness cup before distributing it in each tea appreciation cup. Pour the tea directly from the teapot in a sweeping arc motion to ensure the even distribution of the flavor-this is known as "General Guan touring the city walls " The residual essence of tea in the antique teapots should also be evenly distributed into each individual cup a drop at a time-this is known as “Han Xin inspecting the troops."

Tea Tips
General Guan touring the city walls, Han Xin inspecting the troops
General Guan and Han Xin are historical figures of different dynasties. One often hears the phrases 'General Guan touring the city walls and "Han Xin inspecting the troops" following consecutively. In the early days, people used the so-called "Chaoshan four treasures." namely, the Chaoshan stove (to light a fire in the mud stove), the )ade book (to boil water in a clay pot), the Mengchen teapot (to brew the tea) and the Ruochen cup(to drink the tea). The amount of tea leaves added was usually very large. The pot would usually be 70-80% full. Therefore, the tea brewed was very strong. To distribute the flavor evenly, the large tea cups were arranged either in a straight line or in the form of a pyramid and swept across the cups in a smooth motion while pouring the tea. This move was known as "General Guan touring the city walls." The last drops of tea have the strongest flavor. It is known as the essence of the tea and must be evenly distributed-one drop per cup. This was known as "Han Xin inspecting the troops".

A Half-cup Of Tea; A Full Cup Of Wine

When serving tea, the appropriate amount is to fill only seven-tenth of the vintage tea cups. Filling the cup to the brim is considered impolite. Even the second cup of tea should be seven-tenth full. When using aroma cups and the tea appreciation cups, first distribute the tea into each aroma cup before swirling it around and pouring it into the tea appreciation cup. Avoid overflowing.

"Brewing from High” and “Serving from Low"

"Brewing from High"
"Brewing from high" is a distinctive method of pouring water during the process of brewing tea.
There are three ways of pouring water. In the first, boiling water is directly poured into the tea cup until it is seven-tenth full or the teapot is full. In the second method, one pours the water either anticlockwise or clockwise. In the third method, "the phoenix dips its head thrice,” circle up and down three times in rhythm. Ensure that the amount of water poured is just right and not a drop is wasted.
This movement is a show of respect to the guest. Usually the water is poured from a height. The force of the water scatters the tea leaves, causing the flavor of the tea to be distributed more evenly.

"Serving from Low"
When serving the tea, it is best to pour from a low height. The fairness cup or the teapot should be held slightly higher than the rim of the tea cup, but it should not touch the rim. The purpose is to avoid losing the fragrance of the tea or spilling the tea. Hold the tea towel with one hand, and pick up the fairness cup or the teapot with the other. If the spout of the fairness cup or the teapots are wet, wipe it immediately. It is impolite to let tea drip into a cup. Wipe the spout after serving each cup.
1. Brewing from high
2. Serve from low
3. Wipe the spout of the fairness cup or the teapot after serving every cup.

Tea Knife

When brewing compressed tea leaves, such as tea bricks or tea discs, it is necessary to use the tea knife.
Slide the tea knife into the tea the tea discs at an angle.
Press the handle of the tea knife down to dislodge the tea leaves.
Press the thumb on leaves to pick up the dislodged tea leaves.

Tea Plate

The tea plate is used to keep the dry tea leaves. It is used to display the tea leaves during tea art performances. Avoid touching the edge of the plate with your hands when picking up the tea leaves.
Hold the tea plate firmly with fingers of one hand, support its base with the other hand.
Tilt the tea plate and gently sweep the tea leaves into the teapot.
Tea Tips
Use small unscented porcelain, wooden or bamboo containers or saucers as tea plates.

Six Helpers in the Art of Tea (also known as the extended tea set or tea props)

These items of an extended tea set aid in brewing tea. They make the entire tea brewing process cleaner and more elegant. When picking up these items, avoid touching the areas that come in contact with the tea.
Tea funnel: Place on the teapot to expand the opening. This will avoid spilling tea or water.
Teaspoon: Use to spoon tea leaves from the tea jar. Be gentle and slow.
Tea tongs: Use to warm tea cups and when picking up tea appreciation cups and aroma cups for guests.
Tea scoop: To pick up large amount of non-brittle tea leaves.
Tea pick: Use to unblock the spout of the teapot.
Yanghu Brush: Use to clean the exterior of the teapot. This helps maintain and preserve the color and texture of the teapot which comes with age.
Dos and Don'ts:
Don't touch the six helpers in the art of tea where they come in contact with the tea.

Aroma Cup And Tea Appreciation Cup

The aroma cup and tea appreciation cup are sometimes used to brew Oolong tea.

Warming the cup
1. Hold the tea appreciation cup in one hand and turn it anticlockwise.
2. Pour the water in the cup onto the tea tray.
3. Use tea tongs to hold the tea appreciation cup and turn it anticlockwise for a full circle before draining the water.
4. Use tea tongs to pick up the aroma cup and warm it the same way as the tea appreciation cup.
5. Warm the cup by stacking them one on top of the other. Roll the cups between the fingers to warm them.
6. Use tea tongs to pick up the tea appreciation cup to warm another cup.

Aroma appreciation
1. Pour the tea in the tea appreciation cup, hold the empty aroma cup to breathe in the fragrance.
2. Rub the aroma cup between your hands and bring it toward your nose to breathe in the fragrance.
Tea appreciation
1. Hold the cup between the thumb and second finger, support the base with the third finger, tuck in the fourth and last finger and hold the tea appreciation cup steady.
2. Slowly being the cup to your lips and gently sip the tea, inhale the fragrance.

Fairness Cup And Strainer

1. The fairness cup holds the lea before it is poured into individual tea cups. This lends a uniform flavor to the tea.
2. The strainer, placed on top, prevents the tea leaves from falling into the cup. When not m use. place on its stand or against the tea tray.
3. If the fairness cup has a straining device then the strainer is unnecessary.
4. If the teapot has a straining device then (he strainer is unnecessary.

Tea Tips
The strainer is frequently blocked by tea dust and tea dregs. Therefore, dean and rinse carefully after use.

Handling The Teapot

Handling the teapot is not an easy task. It requires technique to hold the teapot comfortably without getting scalded. Handle the teapot with such ease that even others feel comfortable.
Hold the handle with the thumb and third finger and lift the teapot, lightly pressing the lid of the teapot with the second finger. Make sure not to block the air hole. Press the fourth finger against the handle and tuck in the little finger.
A beginner can choose to hold the teapot with both hands. Press the top of the lid with the third finger of one hand, and hold the handle of the teapot with the thumb, second finger and third finger of the other hand.

Other ways of handling the teapot
1. Hook the handle of the teapot with the third finger and hold it tightly using the thumb. Tuck in the fourth and last finger and lightly press the second finger on the top of the teapot.
2. Hook the handle with the second and third finger. Lightly press the thumb on the top of the teapot.

Dos and Don'ts:
1. While brewing tea, avoid placing the teapot such that the spout laces guest.
2. Never block the air hole on the lid.

Tea Tips
Use porcelain, clay or glass teapots in the same way as Zisha teapots. Choose a tea set with care; always choose a size and weight that is easy to handle.

Heating The Tea Bowl

The tea bowl is also known as "the bowl of three elements". The lid represents the sky; the saucer represents the earth while the tea bowl itself represents man. Therefore, brewing tea in a tea bowl represents the merging of the sky, earth and human beings amid the sweet fragrance of the tea. We cannot use the lid, bowl and saucer separately. Putting aside the saucer and lid to use only the tea bowl for brewing tea, is not only inappropriate and inelegant, but also very impolite.
When brewing tea in a covered tea bowl, you can inhale the fragrance from both the lid and the tea liquid. There is more information on using the tea bowl for aroma and tea appreciation in the chapter Jasmine Tea.

Warming the tea bowl
1. Hold the base of the bowl with the left hand and the lid with the right hand. Turn the bowl anticlockwise for one full circle (similar to the glass cup).
2. Take off the lid of the bowl and hold it at an angle to the bowl. Drain the water in the bowl into the basin against the lid, slowly turning the lid with the right hand.

Warming The Tea Glass

Plain and transparent glass is widely used to brew tea in order to allow the tea drinker to admire the  "dance of the tea leaves." Its thick base can withstand high temperatures. The volume of the glass cups should be approximately between 150-200 ml. Whether you are warming the cup or offering the tea, hold the cup with both hands.

Holding the teacup

The three methods of Support the base of the cup with one hand and wrap the other warming the cup:

Support the base of the cup with one hand and wrap the other hand around the mid section.

Method 1:

1. Hold the cup as level as possible, ensuring that the water in the cup doesn't spill out. Turn the cup anticlockwise—to the front, to the left, to the back and to the right in one full circle.

2. Pour the water from the cup into the basin.

The warming procedure and way of holding the tea cup for handleless, tube-shaped small porcelain teacups is similar to that of the glass teacup.

Method 2:

1. Hold the body of the cup with the right hand and support its base with the left, positioning it levelly.

2. Turn the cup inward with the left hand, and tilt it slowly. Pour the water into the basin.

Method 3:

1. Place the cup level on the palm of the right hand and roll it inward with the left hand.

2. At the same time, tilt the cup and pour the water inside into the basin.

Tea Towel

The tea towel is essential to the process of tea brewing. It is used in wiping both the exterior of the tea sets and the water or tea stains at the base. Choose towels that are highly absorbent when buying tea towels.

Folding the tea towel

Method 1:

1. Demarcate the towel into three equal parts, and fold from both ends.

2. Demarcate the folded towel into three equal parts.

3. Fold again inward twice and smoothen it.

4. Place the towel seam side facing the tea brewer.

Method 2:

1. Demarcate the tea towel into four equal parts and fold the two ends inward, aligned with the middle line.

2. Demarcate the folded towel in four equal parts again and repeat.

3. Fold the folded towel into two and smoothen it.

4. Place the towel seam side facing the tea brewer.

Using the tea towel

Lift the towel with both hands, thumbs on top and the remaining four fingers below. Free the right hand to hold the item to be cleaned.

Dos and Don’ts:

• Avoid using the lea towel as a dishcloth. The tea towel's purpose is to dry the exterior of the tea set or mop the water or tea stains at the base of the tea set. However, water or tea stains on the tray or table should be cleaned with other towels. Using the tea towel to clear discarded fruit peek off the table is a sign of disrespect to the guests.

• Avoid using wet tea towels. Ensure that the tea towel is dry before using

• Avoid using tea towels that are frayed, scruffy or dyed towels.

Taking Out Tea Leaves

The amount of tea leaves used depends on need. After use, seal the tea jar properly before replacing it. (In case of green tea leaves, refrigerate the jar) If there are unused tea leaves on the tea plate, do not put it back in the tea jar. Tea leaves absorb moisture from the air causing oxidization. Putting it back into the tea jar will affect the quality of the tea leaves.

Selection And Setting Of The Tea Set

Choosing the right tea set and its arrangement is very important. Use both hands in coordination when handling the Chinese tea sets, and place each item back to its original setting after use. The setting can be in the order of the brewer's preference and convenience. For example, the teapot can be placed on either side. However, if the item is placed on the right side, reach for it with the right hand, if it is on the left hand, use the left hand. Transfer if necessary. Avoid reaching across items.